Today I’m taking a break from my jeans preparation, and am going to talk about a new pants pattern.
Eureka! Pants That Fit is a fitting pattern. I became interested in this pattern when I did Sarah Veblen’s pants fitting class at Pattern Review. It is an expensive pattern, but another sewer in Australia kindly gifted it to me. It’s a clever pattern that comes with three backs for each size – drafted for each of flat, medium and generous derrieres. The pattern has a comprehensive sizing chart to help choose the pattern. The booklet also has detailed instructions for constructing and fitting a mock up garment.
I choose my pattern size and was able to get a decent fit straight off. I’ve made a few changes, but realistically they’re fairly minor and I was able to get to cutting my ‘second-best’ fabric quickly. I did have the opportunity to join in a class and I took it there. The teacher suggested we take in the inseams a tad, scoop the front, and shape the waistline appropriately. This pattern starts at a point I only got to after three or four toiles in the past. The pattern is designed to finish at the waist, for fitting purposes, and they give instructions for lower that (which I did). I also widened the leg just a bit.
This pattern doesn’t come with pocket pieces, though there is an add-on pattern to add trouser detailing (and one to add jeans detailing) which I don’t have. I won’t buy either of them, since I’m confident enough with adding those details. I did have another pattern on my desk that had a useful pocket, so I just grabbed that one, but they’re not difficult to draw. (Pants *have* to have pockets!)
I made them in a tropical wool that I’ve had for a while. I had pants made of the rest of this length a few years ago and loved them, but I didn’t want two pairs at the same time so I put this length aside. A bug ate bits of it! So I had to fussy cut, and my pocket position is entirely determined by where the holes were! I had to add a faced hem for the same reason.
So, how does it look?
Overall, they’re a smidgen too big. I think, if I’d added a waistband it would have been okay because I could have eased the band on. As it is, I’m going to have to retrofit a couple of darts or add some elastic. I think the front could do with just the tiniest scoop more.
This is after I’ve taken a big pinch out with a pin at the centre front – it’s probably too much, but it feels much better so I’m on the right track. The back isn’t bad, though it could probably also do with a bit more of scoop – just a bit. It could also probably be taken in just a bit at the thigh. You can’t see, because of my top, but it also needs a bit of extra height at the side seams. When I wear it the way that feels right, I get unsightly drag lines. (See next picture.)
These are the draglines. They more or less vanished when I tugged the waistline down at the side seams only to mimic adding another 1-2cm at that point, and tapering to nothing at centre front and centre back.
I need to add those changes to my pattern, but this is the closest I’ve had to a well fitting pants pattern in a long time. I’ve got a good jeans pattern (the Jalie 2908), and a good pants pattern! I’m a happy camper! The next project is a knit yoga pant, but with what I want I rather think I can start with the Eureka!
Back to the Jalie Jeans next week. Happy sewing!